Season: 2025 | Sailingarkyla

Season 2025 - The Caribbean: The Windward Islands

A disjointed season at best; Caribbean cruising plans are delayed whilst Arkyla is hauled out in Grenada for major repairs following a mid-Atlantic whale impact, and then sailing is cut short due to family issues.

Grenada: major repairs (6 Jan - 4 Feb 2025)

This wasn't how I imagined Arkyla's Caribbean adventure would start... major hull repairs following a whale impact whilst crossing the Atlantic! In the world of sailing though, every day is a learning day whether on the water or marooned on the hard. As it turned out however, we were more than fortunate to have chosen wisely in both boatyard and contractors to carry out the work. Similarly, we tested Arkyla's new insurers Global Yacht Cover (through TopSail) to the full and were not let down in terms of speed, service, and outcome.

Clarkes Court Boatyard:

There are three main boatyards in Grenada; Clarkes Court, Spice Island, and Grenada Marine. All yards are located in the bays to the south of the island, and all three are technically outside the hurricane zone for insurance purposes. I chose Clarkes Court Boat Yard (CCBY) for two key reasons; firstly the yard team bent over backwards to provide me an emergency lift-out on the day that all Grenadan marine services closed for the extended Xmas holiday (remember, Arkyla was leaking about 1 litre/hour) and, second, CCBY is base to Palm Tree Marine services as the most highly recommended rudder repair specialists.

The haul-out was conducted with care and professionalism; it was especially comforting to see that every lift is supported by a diver in the water to ensure there is no danger of incorrectly-placed lifting strops damaging the undersides. Arkyla was chocked at the far end of the yard against the sheer wall of the artificially excavated hollow - great for hurricane protection but a long way from the shower block and devoid of any significant flow of air to cool the cabin and deter midges whilst staying onboard to oversee works. There is a good chandlery onsite that hold most essentials, though it is not as well stocked as the chandleries at Port Louis and Spice Island (remember to take boat papers and cruising permit to each chandlery to register for tax-free prices - significant at 40% less!). CCBY is also a short walk to Turbulence Sails which is a North Sails loft franchise.

If there are any downsides to CCBY, it is its relative isolation and an EC$ 80 taxi ride from shops, restaurants, or other services. The only onsite restaurant had a limited menu and even more limited opening hours - if I had had time to drop the dinghy into the water before the lift I would have had water access to the bars and restaurants of Woburn, Le Phare Bleu and Hogs Island which would have made life on the hard a lot more pleasurable. In hindsight, I should also have hired a cheap rental car from one of the local providers (who will help you obtain a temporary Grenadan driving permit).

Palm Tree Marine: Hull repairs

I honestly can't pile enough praise on the team at Palm Tree Marine. Manager 'Sim' was upfront giving realistic timeframes and estimates, and was proactive in finding solutions to getting Arkyla repaired without too much loss of the season despite their already full schedule. Jason Crew was the mechanical and glassing specialist who's manor and obvious knowledge gave me utmost confidence in leaving him to conduct the work without any need for overview (something I am never normally ok with!); he rewarded my confidence by keeping me fully informed at all stages of the extensive process to grind back then re-glass the skeg and aft section of the hull. The story of the repair process is best described in Jason's report to the insurers:

Driftwood: Coppercoating

The final phase of the repairs was the reapplication of the CopperCoat antifoul on the hull, skeg, and rudder edges. This was completed by Driftwood Fine Yacht Services who are resident at CCBY. The Driftwood team are located next door to Palm Tree Marine, so were able to coordinate the process of preparing, applyling, and activating the paint perfectly to ensure my out-of-water time was minimised as far as possible. I was very pleased with the service and end result. The cost (also covered by insurance) was also very reasonable.

Turbulence: Sail repairs

The other casualty to Arkyla's Atlantic crossing was her sails; the shredding of the Parasailor when it was inadvertently dropped into the ocean at 8+ knots, and the wear and tear to the genoa leach UV protection strips caused by 3 weeks of light-air snatching and chafe on the radar.

Turbulence Ltd were ideally placed just a 5 minute walk from CCBY, though they initially collected the sails whilst Arkyla was berthed in Port Louis Marina - they provide a collection/delivery service anywhere in Grenada. In the loft I was able to discuss the replacement of the UV strips to both genoas, and assess the full extent of damage to the Parasailor when it was stretched out in the loft. They were honest in their abilities to repair the Parasailor and, instead of convincing me to part with money against a no-guarantees repair, provided an assessment report of the catastrophic damage to send to the insurers. Whilst not the cheapest loft, the genoa repairs were excellent restoring the sails to 'like new' condition.

Global Yacht Cover: Insurance

This section would not be complete without reference to the outstanding service provided by Global Yacht Cover brokered through Topsail Insurance services.

We had switched to Global Yacht Cover in 2024 as Arkyla's long-time insurers Admiral Marine were unable to provide any cover for named storms during hurricane season. Global were able to provide such cover (as long as the boat is south of 12.1 degrees N during June-November) albeit with a hefty named-storm deductible of £50K. Any other claim is also subject to a £2.5K excess/deductible.

By the time Arkyla had arrived in Grenada, we already had contact with Annabel of Charles Taylor Adjusting. Throughout the claim process correspondence was timely and relevant. I presented clear and evidenced estimates/costs, and I was permitted to proceed with repairs (or ordering) without any due delays. An initial 10% 'old for new' deduction was applied to the spinnaker replacement (covered by insurance as the damage was caused by water not wind) however this was rescinded when I argued that the Parasailor had only been flown a couple of times before the incident and was, therefore, as new at time of incident. All-in-all, the positive way in which the whole claim process was conducted significantly lessened the repair and replacement stresses in the aftermath of Arkyla's two Atlantic incidents.

Lessons Learned:

Personal recommendations for finding trusted contractors inspired confidence in repairs.
Building personal relationships with service providers repaed rewards in terms of meeting timescales to refloat.
Having a good and fair insurance company reduced the stress of an otherwise bad situation.

Grenada & Carriacou (4-20 Feb 2025)

Freedom! Finally, 61 days after arriving in the Caribbean, Arkyla was ready to begin her Caribbean adventure. Having learnt the lesson from the initial haul-out to ensure the boat was indeed watertight after splashing before venturing far and wide, home for the first 2 days of freedom was the Clarkes Court pontoons. Maybe not the most salubrious of marinas, but a great community spirit. My next door neighbour was 'Spirited Lady', a stunning Spirit 55 that suffered the wrath of Hurricane Beryl whilst sheltering in the mangrove of Carriacou's Tyrell Bay. This beautiful yacht was in the final stages of restoration to repair the damage caused by boats that broke free in the mangrove to crush and sink her. The cruiser spirit and camaraderie runs strong in these parts and Spirited Lady's owner took time out to tow me across the bay to Nigel's Outboard Repair shop to fix the carburettor of my badly firing Suzuki... 24 hours later I not only had a watertight yacht, but also a fully functioning tender - it was time to slip lines for turquoise waters.

Woburn Bay. Before I could escape the pontoon, some emergency gelcoat cleaning was required; the Clarkes Court Rum Distillery occasionally discharges into the bay, and overnight Arkyla's stern had been covered in a brown and sticky gunge that resisted all products except CIF to remove! Small steps was then the name of the game as I continued to gain confidence in the repairs to Arkyla's skeg and rudder; for the first night at anchor, I chanced a massive 0.5NM motor to drop the hook in Woburn Bay. Today was Grenada's Independence Day, and Arkyla was strategically placed to meet friends and other cruisers for a music jam at Roger's Beach Bar on Hogg Island. The locals had clearly made an early start of things and, by the time we arrived at sundown, an alcohol-fuelled dispute was well under way eventually being settled by a spade to the head!

Prickly Bay. After a night of listening to live music and witnessing attempted murder, I decided to move further along the coast to Prickly Bay. This is possibly the best known and most popular of the Grenadan anchorages. Mooring buoys proliferate here leaving only the outer extremes realistically accessible for anchoring which can be susceptible to swell and associated rolling; I chose a buoy adjacent to the marina (technically a marina, but probably more accurately described as a glorified pontoon!). Here you can safely leave the dinghy though to visit attractions ashore including the beachside Sand Bar & Grill and, a short walk away, the West Indies Beer Company. Boats can clear customs in the marina and there is a minimart but don't expect much in the way of selection or change in your pocket! For proper provisioning, the place to go is Ram's supermarket up the hill, though this is probably a taxi ride away. Prickly Bay is also home to Spice Island Marine Services (SIMS) which many consider the best boatyard on the island; it is also serviced by an excellent, well-stocked chandlery.

Port Louis. Arkyla has been in the water now for a week and her transom and bilge are bone dry! With full confidence in her integrity, thoughts turn to moving north up the Windward Islands chain. First though is a stop in Port Louis marina to run errands and fill the water tanks. Within walking distance of the marina is a reasonable supermarket (with its own dinghy dock), and an excellent chandlery; when shopping in a chandlery, be sure to take boat registration and cruising permit papers as without these prices will be 40% higher than marked! It is an easy walk to the 'Carenage' area of St Georges where it is fascinating to see the fishing vessels plying their trade. Here there are also several international couriers if you need goods either in or out to/from Grenada. For 'goods in' it is mandatory to have a shipping agent who will take care of customs and import duties (2% for yachts in transit); I had Horizon Yacht Services (based at Clarkes Court) take care of the replacement Parasailor sail for me sent from the UK. At the far end of the Carenage is a tunnel through to the main area of St Georges. Here you will find a mall attached to the cruiseship dock with all the disappointing tat shops you might expect of such a location! In the town you will find Digicell and Flow mobile phone shops however for purchase of local SIM/eSIM for 4G data that will be valid in any of the islands that use the Caribbean Dollar (EC$) as official currency.

From Port Louis Marina it is a pleasant (and safe) walk around to the famed Grand Anse beach (off which boats are not permitted to anchor); golden sand, clear water, and great restaurants including the casual Umbrellas, more refined 61Deg West, and mini bars within the Craft and Spice Market. It is also possible to book a SCUBA dive from one of the two operators at the western end of the beach - a visit to the underwater sculpture park is a must.

To facilitate an early departure for Carriacou, Arkyla was moved from marina to a mooring outside Port Louis (anchoring here is not permitted). There were many treats in store whilst swinging on the buoy that afternoon and evening; some classic old yachts sailing by, a 5-masted cruise ship with its rigging all lit up and, at sundown, the fabled tropical 'green flash' which I managed to capture on film!

Passage north to Carriacou. The Doyle's Guide (the bible to the Caribbean) recommends that a full day be given for the 32NM passage north to Carriacou. The norm is to motor up the often windless lee of Grenada, then hug the north coast toward Sauteurs to avoid the worst of the west-setting current that might place you atop the (voluntary) exclusion zone over 'Kick em Jenny' - active underwater volcano! Only 30 minutes of the iron mainsail was needed pushing up Grenada, but Doyle was right in predicting big short seas and strong current off the northern tip of the island and the suggested precautionary reef in main and jib was also a wise move as 30-knot gusts occasionally blasted down. Having successfully skirted the volcano danger zone, and avoided 'The Sisters' outcrops (which have a reputation all of their own) Arkyla passed by close to Ronde Island (with a secluded anchorage) and the imposing Diamond Rock before setting for Carriacou and Tyrell Bay.

Carriacou. Carriacou's Tyrell Bay is considered one of the best protected anchorages in all of the Caribbean let alone the Grenadine islands. The mangrove here is where many yachts took shelter from hurricane Beryl in June 2024 but, despite the fabled protection, foundered as boats broke free and caused a crushing domino effect as they were blown down one atop another (one being Spirited Lady as described above). The remains of many of these boats, now cleared from the mangrove, have been left abandoned on mooring buoys in the bay and provide a stark reminder to the destructive power of Beryl. Walking the length of the shoreline it was all to clear how the land=based residents of the island had also suffered. Despite the extensive damage, it was heartening however to see the resilience of the locals in their endeavours to get their businesses and restaurants up and running again despite the obvious lack of resources to make repairs. It was a great pleasure nonetheless to sit on the veranda of the Gallery Bistro and watch fishermen pulling in their catch from the beach as the sun made its descent to the horizon.

From Tyrell Bay it is a 30 minute walk to L'Esterre Bay for Paradise Beach (very aptly named!) and views out to Sandy Island famed for its abundance of palms, corals, and turtles! Wading ankle deep in the lapping waves, it felt a million miles away from the storm-ravaged Tyrell Bay community just over the brow of the hill; sat on the terrace of the Paradise Beach Club, with the cheeky avian locals hopping around the table, you would never know that Beryl had so much as kissed this part of the Grenadines as it still oozed every part of the quintessential Caribbean dream.

Despite being exposed to the stiff breeze, the pull of Sandy Island was too strong to ignore. With intent to push on to St Vincent and the Grenadines the next day, I took the dinghy to clear Arkyla out of the Grenada customs office located in Carriacou Marine (also a handy place to safely leave the dinghy if going shoreside in Tyrell Bay). Formalities done (and with 24-hours grace before having to leave Grenadan waters), it was back to the boat, anchor weighed, and the engine started for the 2NM motor round the headland. Sandy Island is a marine park, so anchoring here incurs the same cost as picking up a buoy which helps get the boat just that bit closer to the spit.

Once hooked up, it was time to sit and watch turtles popping their heads above the waves and birds catching their supper. The superyacht 'Le Ponant' also provided its own display, setting full sail (in 18 knots of true wind) before heading out of the bay and heading off to its next destination. Going ashore, the surf can be a bit of a challenge when beaching the dinghy, but the effort is worthwhile. The stretch of sand is fringed with palms, has soft sand underfoot, and has an interesting array of corals washed atop the spit (beware stubbing toes when walking the beach!). Sharing this bit of paradise with only a couple of other cruisers, this was the perfect spot to watch the sun go down for the last time (for the time being) on Grenadan soil!

Some top tips for Grenada:

Take boat registration and cruising permit to the chandleries to register for tax-free status - costs will be 40% higher otherwise!
Navigate carefully into the southern coast bays - the reefs are treacherous and buoys have been known to drift out of position.
Stock up on cash and provisions before heading to Carriacou.
To avoid the west-setting current taking you over 'Kick 'em Jenny' underwater volcano, make a tack into Sauteurs.

St Vincent & the Grenadines (20 Feb-4 Mar 2025)

The Grenadines. I first cruised the Grenadines, aboard a charter yacht from St Vincent's Blue Lagoon marina base, back in 2009 and had many fond memories of the islands and their people. I had a small level of trepidation therefore whilst navigating the 8 nm between Carriacou and Union Island (where Arkyla could be checked in) as to what I would find in the wake of Hurricane Beryl's destruction the previous summer; cruiser tales and website forums still spoke of significant post-storm issues impacting the islands.

Union Island. It was abundantly clear when first entering Clifton Harbour that this was still a community under stress; the view from the helm was a shoreline of carnage. The cruiser grapevine noted that the islanders needed all the help they could get, and that 'yacht dollars' were a vital means to help the reconstruction and regeneration - with that in mind, rather than anchor, Arkyla was roped up to one of the many buoys behind the reef with the help of a boat boy. Safely secured, the dinghy was dropped from its davits in preparation for going ashore to check in with customs and immigration. Finding a place to leave the tender was the first conundrum; there was little remaining of the harbour docks beyond a few pillars and planks. A local waved me in to the commercial ferry dock and offered to look after the dinghy whilst I completed my formalities. As it turned out, he had lured me away from the hidden entrance to the still-functional dinghy dock, but his desperation and need was all too clear so I could not hold any grudge against his enterprise to earn a few EC$ to feed himself and his family. The short walk to the temporary check-in office was heart rendering; most buildings had been flattened, people were still living in tents and dependent upon an emergency water point, and discarded food containers, brought in daily by the government, exposed the extant need for even the most basic external assistance some 8-months on from the storm. Despite the hardship however, there was positivity and hope in abundance as people were rebuilding and trying to resurrect businesses; with a touch of shame, all the 1st World problems we cruisers moan about yacht ownership seemed somewhat superficial.

Arkyla was moored almost directly in front of 'Happy Island', the iconic bar built single-handed from conch shells by its proprietor Jonty; it would have been rude not to have dinghied across for a sundowner (or two)! Before heading over however, as kite-surfers wizzed by, I watched the staysail ketch 'Rhea' motor close to the reef and drop anchor nearby; a modern (2017) 54 metres of pure classic beauty! Back on Happy Island, Jonty served impressively strong Painkillers and regaled stories of Beryl, repairs, and how the man-made island bar continues to grow. Just like on Carriacou's Paradise beach earlier however, it was hard to reconcile being in such a happy holiday vibe whilst devastation was still very much the order of the day only a few hundred metres away ashore.

Mayrou. The distance between Clifton Harbour and Salt Whistle Bay on Mayrou is only 4 nm... with 15 knots of wind on the beam it was a swift passage but just enough time to marvel at last night's neighbour 'Rhea' power past Arkyla under full sail. Passing close to the island, it was clear from the patchwork treeline that Mayrou too had been significantly hit by Beryl. Ashore in Salt Whistle Bay however, apart from a wrecked sloop washed ashore, things looked just as I had remembered them 15 years previously. There were many bars and restaurants to choose from, and plentiful palm trees leaning out over the bay to hide under to escape the burning rays of the beating sun. Walking across the spit gave a great view of the yachts at anchor in the Tobago Cays which would be Arkyla's next stop.

The Tobago Cays. For many, the Cays are the 'must visit' anchorage of the Grenadines. A marine park centred around 5 small islands, they embody the tropical dream of soft white sands, turquoise water, and turtles in abundance. All this comes at a cost however, the price being popularity. That said, there is plenty of space to anchor and buoys to hang off. Careful navigation is needed approaching and within the Cays... it is not uncommon for yachts, especially bareboat charters, to come a cropper on the reefs especially the southern channel.

Whilst many like to moor behind the protecting barrier reef for the uninterrupted view to Africa, Arkyla's hook was dropped in the lee of the two islands Petite Rameau and Petite Bateau making for a more comfortable and sheltered experience from the continuing stiff winds. It is, from here, only a short dinghy ride to pass through the channel to explore the windward side of the islands for the snorkelling and turtle watching. Here there are a limited number of beaches to land and explore but, unfortunately, there are some in the superyacht business who think that they have the right to commandeer these for private use by their clientele. I met one such shore crew (hereby shaming MV Akula) who insisted I leave as they had exclusively hired the island for the day. Despite presenting him the facts of 'the Queen's chain' and marine park regulations, this obnoxious idiot maintained his claim; I told him I would leave just as soon as he showed me his receipt from the marine park. Despite the poor snorkelling that day, I made a point of hanging around and visibly strutting my stuff until after his over-privileged guests had arrived... it may have been an abject exercise in pettiness, but it felt like an important win to show that money can't buy everything! The Cays gave a lot; sunshine, squalls, rainbows, turtles and even a spotted eagle ray circling the hull in the dark hours.

Canouan. Another short hop up the Grenadines chain... just 6 nm. A short passage it may be, but there is no room for navigational mishap as there are reefs and shallows between the Tobago Cays and Canouan, so a NW dogleg is needed before turning north. South Glossy Bay is fabled for its white sand beaches, but there is little protection from the current stiff winds. A new marina - the Sandy Lane Yacht Club ' - sits between the sand spit and the airport; it has a good reputation, but there is no desire to tie alongside a pontoon, so Arkyla sails by and turns to anchor in Grand Bay. Tacking into the Bay, we pass close to my Tobago Cays nemesis 'MV Akula' but I resist the urge to call up the Captain on the VHF to discuss my displeasure with his/her shore team!

Ashore it is clear that Canouan has also suffered greatly from the onslaught of Beryl, but there is much activity rebuilding the dock area. There is a 'strange' air about the place. The north of the island is almost exclusively a private complex owned by an Italian billionaire that pre-hurricane attracted A list celebrities. That may explain the presence of the Soho Beach House in the bay. It is open to non-members/hotel residents for breakfast and dinner; the food and wine was delicious and great value... great value that is until I realised that the unannotated menu was priced in US dollars and not EC! Oh well, you have to splash out once in a while even if inadvertently.

Bequia. With no real desire to revisit Mustique, Bequia is the next port of call. The added bonus of skipping Mustique is that, finally, there is a bit of west in the course and Arkyla is able to make the 17 nm to the western tip of Bequia, for the turn into Admiralty Bay, in a single tack and without having to bash forlorn into the wind! As with many places now, the prime spots close to the town are taken by mooring buoys, so if dropping a hook you need to accept that you will be further out. For Port Elizabeth, that generally means anchoring off Princess Margaret beach, though on this occasion I managed to nudge Arkyla into Point Bay on the northern side where there is less swell.

Port Elizabeth is a favoured destination for many cruisers, and many stay anchored or moored in Admiralty Bay for weeks on end. Aside from the excellent holding and shelter, here there are many bars, restaurants, and opportunities to provision. There is easy access to good swimming beaches, and a couple of dive shops for trips, tank refills, and equipment servicing. There is, unsurprisingly, an established cruiser community with a radio net and informal events ranging from walks to Sunday meets to play the local version of dominoes! Doris Marketplace is famed for its quality groceries but be warned that the only thing surpassing its range of goods on offer are the prices that they command - 2nd mortgage stuff! Aside from all the amenities, the thing that really stood out on this visit was that Bequia marked the boundary of islands affected by Hurricane Beryl; there was little evidence of the extensive damage synonymous with the other Grenadine islands to the south. Hanging out in the floating bar (visible in the centre of the photo above) was a great place to watch the cruise ship ferries coming and going, see seabirds catching their dinner, and to chill as the sun turned the sky a brilliant orange.

St Vincent. The capital island of the nation, St Vincent has a 'mixed' reputation regarding security for yachts as there has been a history of thefts and violence against cruisers. Conversely though it is also considered one of the most beautiful areas to visit if some basic safety measures, such as not anchoring alone in isolated bays, are adhered to. First stop for Arkyla was Young Island cut, the anchorage just outside Blue Lagoon that is home to much of the SVG charter fleets. The northern entrance into the lagoon is too shallow for Arkyla, and the southern entrance should only be attempted with a local pilot to guide you in; hence the decision to take a mooring in the cut. Whilst anchoring is not forbidden, it is not recommended here as boats swing erratically with tide, wind and current. The passage across from Bequia is not far as the crow flies, but a west-setting current means that it is adviseable to put plenty of east in the course to avoid having to beat up to the lagoon. trips ashore here, but time was spent relaxing to ready for the next day scoot along the western coast.

It is a long slog to push the length of St Vincent and continue across to St Lucia, so stopping overnight midway is a good option; fortunately there are a number of options for clearing in/out of SVG. We chose Wallilabou not only for its reports of being safe, but out of curiosity to see the film set for 'Pirates of the Caribbean'. It's a well protected but deep bay, so taking a buoy makes a lot of sense. Even with local boat boys to help however it took a fair degree of manoeuvring skill to position between buoy and decaying jetty to secure with a stern line. With the draw of the film set it gets busy here, so a relatively early arrival in the afternoon paid dividends. Ashore is a strange mix of beauty, kitsch, and the weird... not often you come across a museum room dedicated to a display of old Bakelite telephones! The remaining elements of the film set also made this place feel a little touristy in what was otherwise a lovely location with a fantastic beach. Here at late afternoon the customs and immigration officials open shop to allow boats to clear in and out. Later in the afternoon 'Chronos' - sister ship to 'Rhea' that we had admired earlier in the island - anchored up and discharged her charter guests. Dinner ashore was decidedly unremarkable, but wonderful to sit and watch the boats lit up in the bay.

Some top tips for the Grenadines:

Be security conscious, but not afraid - try not to anchor in isolated bays.
The impacts of Hurricane Beryl are still significant; the locals need 'cruiser dollars' to help rebuild.
Allow for the west-going current when transiting between Bequia and St Vincent.
Use Sailclear but don't be surprised if the system is not working in some locations so forms must be filled by hand.
There is only limited provisioning in the southern islands, and groceries are expensive in Bequia.
Make use of Cruiser Radio Nets and Facebook groups.
Know your rights and don't get bullied by superyacht crews trying to claim exclusivity!

St Lucia (4-12 Mar 2025)

I was looking forward to St Lucia, not least for the prospect of dropping the hook whilst nestled between the Pitons - surely one of the most iconic anchorages anywhere in the world!

The passage from St Vincent had been uneventful though, as predicted in the pilot guide, confused and squally winds, along with lumpy seas, were experienced when leaving the protection of the lee of the island. All was then literally 'plain sailing' until the last mile or so approaching Soufriere where, again, the wind decided to do its own thing! Clearly the big peaks of the two Pitons have a dramatic effect on funnelling the wind and we went from a beam reach to tacking into the bay under heavily reefed sails in preparation for 30+ knot gusts (which materialised!).

The Doyles Guide recommended calling ahead to reserve a buoy, but I was told that it was in fact first come, first served. The Marine Rangers were very helpful however and said that if I radio'd on my arrival that they would send a rib to help us tie to a mooring. They also advised that if I used a boat boy, not to pay more than 20EC. A very persistent boat boy did indeed approach and, when I said I had already arranged for a park ranger to meet me, tried to convince me that he was that ranger! He became quite aggressive and I did consider using his services for later 'peace of mind', but stuck it out to wait for the official ranger.

Soufriere. Soufriere is known as a colourful, historically-rich town and launch pad for the Pitons, but it also has a reputation where boat and personal safety should be taken seriously; hearing a volley of gunshots in my bunk at night reinforced the self-preservation gene, especially when walking around the town the next day I noted several 'Say no to guns' signs! That said, the overwhelming experience here, albeit in the less intimidating daylight hours, was one of friendliness and helpfulness. Indeed, the only threats came from the gulls marking their territory on the remains of the pier close to the dinghy dock! The dock lies behind a guarded gate so, at least during the day, it is safe to leave the tender unattended here. Turn right outside the dock entrance and you are only 50m from the customs and immigration offices for check-in, though they are not obviously marked so some local help was needed to identify them.

The town is full of colour and retains a 'colonial' feel to its brightly painted buildings, and street art tastefully adorns otherwise less attractive walls. With some chronic back pain, some self treatment was in order in the hot spring baths, just a 20 minute walk from the quayside. Here you can amble through exotic gardens, visit a cascading waterfall, them submerge yourself in the hot springs originally built in 1784 to serve the soldiers of France's King Louis XVI; for a few extra EC$, you can even have your own private room and tub! The afternoon was sealed by a wander past the beach-front cemetry (where it appeared old boats really did go to die!), and a traditional creole meal in a beautiful old building overlooking the bay.

Rodney Bay. The ball was dropped from Soufriere and the bow pointed north. Sailing up the coast, Arkyla was met by the oncoming charter fleet traffic taking tourists from the hotels and resorts of Castries and Rodney Bay to the iconic Pitons now in our wake. Pushing into Marigot Bay was on the cards, but the view through the binoculars was one of an already crowded outer anchorage, so a decision to continue all the way up to Rodney Bay was made.

Arkyla plodded along under sail in the light and sometimes fickle wind so common of the lee sides of the Caribbean islands. In no rush, it felt like no time had gone by before all the day boats that had passed full throttle going south, now made their charge back up the stern though this time with music, singing, and dancing on deck the predominant theme - teetotal these tour boats were not... there is only so many times in one day you can listen to YMCA!

Rodney Bay is a huge anchorage with most boats choosing to drop their hooks off either Gros Islet or Reduit beaches. Arkyla was manoeuvred into a quiet spot in the north of the bay off Pigeon Island. Pigeon Island is a national monument and has its own dinghy dock; there is a charge to explore during the day, but you are free to roam after 1700. From the cockpit, Gordon's Restaurant on the nearby pier looked like a perfect spot for dinner and a beer however, before the tender could even be tied to the dock, security guards were quick to wave us off as this was for exclusive use of the Sandals all-inclusive resort. Instead, Monty Moo II (Arkyla's trusty tender) was hauled up on the adjoining beach and padlocked to a sturdy lamppost whilst a beer was drowned in The Thirsty Parrot bar - relegated to the pauper's seats maybe, but the sunset was the same from both locations!

It came as some surprise that Rodney Bay Marina, even well past the time that ARC boats had arrived and moved on, had zero space. Instructions from the marina office were to stay anchored out, remain in VHF contact with the dock master, and be ready to move should an opportunity berth become available. Arkyla was moved closer to the marina entrance and anchored close to Reduit beach; Doyle's Guide recommends giving space from Gros Islet for peace of mind regarding both noise and security! The holding off Reduit is good in mostly sand, but it is important to dig in as some dead coral patches are less secure. The shallow waters here are crystal clear and perfect for swimming, though it was nice to take the dinghy ashore to laze on the sand and wander down to Marie's Fish Shack and the 'boat bar' at the southern end of the beach. An enterprising grocery boat will offer fruit and vegetables off your stern, though these were not cheap and the banana bread of decidedly mediocre quality despite the purveyors assertions that it was his daughter's finest!

Rodney Bay Marina. The key to getting into the marina is to be persistent on the VHF to the dock master; many of the boats at anchor are waiting for a slip so sitting back and waiting for the call isn't going to work. It was mixed feelings being tied alongside a finger again; the brain was loving the access to hot showers, restaurants, bars, and chandleries, but the heart was shouting that this wasn't the Caribbean that we had sailed across an ocean to experience. Nonetheless, full use was made of the creature comforts on offer, not least the massage in the on-site health clinic to provide some relief to my chronically aching back. It was also something of a surprise to catch up with several of the ARC+ fleet here as I thought that all boats would now be significantly further north... the bar did good business that night! It's possible to walk to Reduit or Gros Islet beaches from the marina but personal safety should be taken seriously and dark hours avoided.

Arkyla was treated to some TLC whilst here; repairs to her sprayhood by Rodney Bay Sails, and renewed lines and fittings from Island Water World. I also engaged one of the locals touting dockside services to clean and polish the hull; my advice is to hagle hard on a price and be on hand to quality control the work!

Some top tips for St Lucia:

Make personal and boat security a priority.
Be prepared to deal with persistent, and sometimes aggressive, boat boys.
Rodney Bay Marina is a great place to fix, renew, or replace things.
Be sure to haggle on prices!

Martinique (12-21 Mar 2025)

Passage to Martinique. Martinique is the first of the French administered islands heading north through the Windwards and has for Europeans (of which I include the UK) two main lures... fine cuisine for the owner and butane bottles for the boat! I had pondered long and hard in the Canaries as to whether I should invest in propane regulators for the cooking gas but, because I would also have to tweak the oven burners, decided to chance my luck on being able to refill with butane somewhere along the island chain. As it happens, French islands are the place to swap out the butane! It goes without saying that the ability to stock up on French wines, at reasonable prices, also makes for a sailor!

It is an easy 25 NM hop from Rodney Bay to the chosen landfall of Le Marin. The only notable navigational worry is that fishing pots are again in abundance along Martinique's coastline. Le Marin is a well established yachting hub; the long bay provides some of the best shelter in the Caribbean, and there are many chandleries and services located around the large marina complex. The French have also cracked check-in and clear-out; it can be self-completed at designated marina offices or shops, the staff providing a print-out for records... such an efficient and easy process (once you have registered an account which may require some local help!)